It has taken almost a year to express the amazement that was my family’s 30 day RV road trip. It is fitting that on this International Day of Happiness, I attempt to do just that.
About this time last year my family and I began planning our summer vacation. We set out on a 30 day, RV road trip of Western America. Appeasing a nudging suggestion from me, albeit with little hesitation, my Uncle Carl, Aunt Vetta , the kids, and I decided we would travel the western frontier.
My uncle had driven long haul in the past, and is quite the mechanic and handyman, but none of us had been out on the road in this capacity. We were going on a National Park tour of the western states.
Aside from knowing the date we had to return the rented RV (30 days), we were under no time restrictions or obligations.
May I suggest: - Practice basic outdoor ethics to minimize your impact, leaving the land better than you find it. - Stay up to date with National Park Service for road closures. - Bring the essentials: motor oil, duct tape, rope, tie down straps, etc.
I will take the risk and assume that at least one person may be thinking, “black people don’t camp like that!” I have no argument for that. We were on the road 30 days, traveled within 13 states, and we did not encounter one other person of color at a camp or RV site. Nonetheless, the five of us were there, having the time of our lives.
With the RV gassed, stocked and ready, a general list of the national parks and monuments we wanted to visit, our National Park Pass, and my car hitched, with what my uncle calls “the best $99 ever spent,” we were ready to embark on what would be, our almost 10,000 total miles, interstate adventure.
Here are highlights of our road trip, our guide with suggestion of must-visit places, things to do, tips on where to stay and how to get around.
Follow our path, or journey your own. I hope our trip inspires you to have a great adventure. Enjoy Your Trip!!
May I suggest: - Hit the highways at dawn to give yourself enough daylight to maximize your days. - If towing, set up camp when you can, and drive your smaller car within the narrow, curves, switchbacks, and pigtails of the national parks.
Day 1: Carlsbad, New Mexico
We spent the first day traveling west from Dallas toward New Mexico. We arrived, on a whelm and quick search: “boondocking locations near me,”at a dry camping area off a dirt road, just outside of Washington Ranch. You should have seen the bewildered look on their faces. Nevertheless, with enough gray water, propane, and a clean black tank, we proceeded.
Where we stayed: Sunset Reef Campground - This is a Bureau of Land Management (BLM) with five RV spaces and six tent spaces each with covered picnic table and grill. Situated adjacent to the Guadalupe Mountains, less than a 20 minutes drive from Carlsbad Caverns National Park, and with only one vault toilet, we were thrust into the great outdoors.
Day 2: Carlsbad Caverns National Park
The morning began bright and early with a friendly greeting and blessing from Adam, a more experienced RV’er and campsite lodger, there to aid in securing what would be the trips only mechanical mishap. After a thrilling first evening of yoga under the bright desert stars, we were retracting the awning of the RV, when wack, bam, pop. Admittedly, it had us questioning our adventurous undertaking. With some duct tape, tie down straps, and prayer, we forged ahead.
May I suggest: - There are two ways down into the cavern: elevator or a mild-moderate hike. Reserve your ticket and take a jacket.
After spending a few hours under ground, we continued west, arriving in Alamogordo, NM early evening.
Day 3: White Sands National Park and New Mexico Museum of Space History
After walking the boardwalk and sledding down the hills of White Sands’ waterless oasis, we stopped by the New Mexico Museum of Space History and International Space Hall of Fame. Be sure to catch a show under the stars in the planetarium.
Where we stayed: Lawhorn's RV and Storage - After calling a couple places that did not answer the phone. Steve, the RV park owner, politely answered the phone and navigated us to him; just past the world's largest pistachio.
Day 4: Tucson, Arizona
Although we were delayed leaving Alamogordo (the military was tracking and testing a missile), we made it to the Tucson area and our home for the night in plenty of time for yet another beautiful desert sunset.
Where we stayed: Rustic Starlight - This beautiful, albeit remote, dispersed site outside of Tucson would be our home for the night. May I suggest: - It gets extremely dark this far from city lights, plan accordingly.
Day 5: Saguaro National Park
We arrived at this cacti wonderland just before opening. The kids were able to assist in raising the flag and became junior rangers.
After watching a video on the history and deep culture of the Saguaro, drive the loop to see these giant majestic plants before traveling north through the Black Hills.
Where we stayed: Raptor Ranch - Our original campsite near the South Rim was not accessible due to flood and road closure. The sun was setting as we spotted a welcoming Fred Flintstone and couldn't pass up the opportunity for a Yabba Dabba Doo! good time.
Day 6: Grand Canyon South Rim Entrance
The South Rim entrance can be crowded, so pack a bag with your hiking essentials and get there early.
The sure expansiveness of this natural wonder is breathtaking. The Grand Canyon offers miles of hiking, a chance to spot an elk, and the most picture perfect views. Do not forget your selfie stick and be mindful of the edge.
We were surprised to know that our campground stay came with free admission to Bedrock City, a historic cartoon landmark, and a chance to see how Fred, Wilma, Barney, and Betty, lived.
We also made time to take a quick 10 minute walk to the Planes of Fame Air Museum next door, which unfortunately, is now closed to the public.
Day 7: Hoover Dam – Boulder, Nevada
We left Bedrock early morning headed for the Arizona/Nevada border. We dropped our RV and spent just a couple hours in this dual state engineering wonder, before returning to the dispersing camp to enjoy the Nevada desert sunset.
Where we stayed: Eldorado Valley Dispersed Camping - We found this BLM location about 30 minutes from the Hoover Dam on the northbound side of US-95 in Boulder, Nevada. Two important notes about this campsite: 1) This site was full of shotgun shells; as the sign suggest target practice is allowed. 2)This site has low lying areas that are often washed away and difficult to cross. May I suggest: - Find a site in the area near the roadside to avoid the wash out areas and getting stuck.
Day 8 -9: Yosemite National Park
We left Boulder very early the next morning crossing Death Valley before the heat of the day. Our plans were to visit Sequoia & Kings Canyon National Park, however, roads within the park, as well as the entrances were inaccessible due to weather and flooding. Thus, we headed north to Yosemite.
Where we stayed: Oakhurst, CA - We spotted the sign for High Sierra RV & Mobile Park and arrived as Jayden, the maintenance man, was locking up the office for the day. He informed us that Donna, the manager, would return first thing in the morning and would give us an official RV site. He allowed us to dump our black tank, and we were more than welcome to "rough it" in the empty dirt lot, for free, for the night.
We came to find, simple acts of kindness, would be the norm every place we roamed.
We walked the Mariposa Grove of giant sequoias, saw the massiveness of Fallen Monarch and Grizzly Giant, before taking in the view of El Capitan, and getting soaked by Bridalveil Fall.
Riddle me this: If a tree falls in the forest does it make a sound? The answer is ABSOLUTELY!
Not only does it make a sound, it shakes the earth. We were both startled and amazed when we heard and felt a tree fall just in the distance. The small crowd we were amongst were giddy, relishing in the delight of the vibration.
May I suggest: - We could have used better gear when the wind direction changed without warning,dumping water from Bridalveil Fall. - Hungry after a day in Yosemite, try the peaches and cream burger.
Day 10: Sacramento, CA
We decided to stop in on Uncle Lonnie and Aunt Louise for some family bonding before heading to San Francisco. Unfortunately, there are no vacancies. Rest assure, the stay, food, and hospitality were second to none.
Day 11: San Francisco, CA
We left the RV in Sacramento and took the nearly 2 hour trip to San Francisco for the day.
We wandered around Golden Gate Park, enjoying the free orchestra concert, statues, and attractions. I drove the most crooked street in world, Lombard Street…twice (Aunt Vetta forgot to hit record the first time.) We strolled Pier 39 and got a great view of Alcatraz Island, before heading across the Golden Gate Bridge, and back to Sacramento.
May I suggest: - Visit Golden Gate Overlook to walk the Golden Gate Bridge and get a different angle of Alcatraz Island.
Day 12: Humboldt County
We left Sacramento headed northbound via the 101. We drove through the canopy of trees and got our feet wet in the calm warm waters of the lagoon.
Where we stayed: -Trinidad Northbound Rest Area - This area is clean and nestled in the trees, making it quiet from highway noise. Although this is a small area,there may be rigs moving in and out. Be sure to use the free dump on your way out. May I suggest: - Check the rest area postings for maximum stay limits.
Day 13: Redwood National & State Parks
We thought the trees in Yosemite were huge, and they most definitely were, but the trees in Redwood National Forest were gigantic!
Made up of 3 state parks and 1 national park combined (Redwood National Park, Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park, Del Norte Coast Redwoods State Park, and Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park), spend the day in awe of nature on one of the many hiking trails.
Where we stayed: Crescent City, Ca.- After our 2 mile hike, we proceeding north to where we restocked and found Sunset Harbor RV Park. May I suggest: - There were RV parks EVERYWHERE along our route. Make a reservation or just pull in, as we did.
Day 14: Crater Lake National Park
We were delighted to first hear, then see, a colony of seals laying out on our early morning walk around the harbor.
Prior to researching for our trip, I had never heard of Crater Lake. Formed in a sleeping volcano atop the Cascade Mountain Range, and fed only by rain and snow, Crater Lake holds the title of the deepest lake in America. Pictures do no justice to the purity and radiant color of Crater Lake.
Unfortunately, because of the extended winters, much of this national park’s roads were closed.
We made a quick stop in the visitor center before heading down the mountain, trying to beat the rain.
Where we stayed: Silver Lake, OR - With the rain coming, the sun setting, and we had driven over 60 miles without seeing a single car on the road, when we spotted a sign for Elaine's RV Park, we had to stop. This park was "nothing to write home about," as my grandmother says. It was simple, convenient, quiet, and available...perfect. May I suggest: - Bring plenty of mosquito repellant. I have never seen mosquitos this big, and I'm from Texas.
Day 15: Bellevue, Idaho
This was strictly a day of travel. We left Elaine’s RV Park traveling the Oregon Trail toward West Yellowstone, MT. We made it to Timmerman Junction Rest Area just before the rain. This would be our resting location for the night.
Day 16-18: Yellowstone National Park
Yellowstone gave what it was suppose to give!
You could spend a week here and not see it all. This place MUST be seen and experienced to truly appreciate its wonder and beauty.
We saw geysers, canyons, waterfalls, goats, sheep, bison, antelope, elk, deer, a wolf pack, black bears, and a grizzly bear, oh my!
On our first day in the park, we made our way through the west entrance and spent a few hours at and around Old Faithful, until it began to rain.
Where we stayed: West Yellowstone, MT - Although The Wagon Wheel RV Park and Camping was the most expensive park and stay of our road trip, $60/night, it is just blocks from the west entrance, shops, and restaurants. May I suggest: - Hike the 0.5 mile trail to the Observation Point for a vantage view of Old Faithful's timely eruption. - The geysers and thermal features are extremely hot, Do Not Touch!
Did you know Yellowstone has a canyon? We parked in a designated lot and took a short walk to one of the many lookout points. You can hike to see more of the canyon, the Upper and Lower Falls.
I drove the Grand Loop toward the north entrance to Mammoth Hot Springs, a thermal limestone area. We walked the upper and lower boardwalks to see the multitude of hot springs in the area.
Continue toward the Northeast entrance to take in Tower Falls. On our walk to the fall overlook, the growing crowd spotted three black bears (mother and two cubs).
May I suggest: - Be sure you are medically and physically capable to hike. - Stay on the official trails and boardwalks for your safety and nature's safety.
The thermals, falls, geysers and canyons are sites to behold, but what is a trip to Yellowstone without the animal sightings.
May I suggest: - Bring Binoculars! The animal sightings are unbelievable!
There was no shortage of bison; they seem to be EVERYWHERE. However, after two glorious days exploring Yellowstone, we had yet to see the infamous grizzly bear. As we were headed out, toward the northeast entrance, in route to Cooke City, Montana, there she was, just in the distance.
Only a few miles down the road, a large herd of bison grazed near the river bank. Suddenly, a pack of wolves came running out of the tree line. Our mouths dropped. We could not believe it.
On a query to the visitor’s center upon our arrival, a park ranger informed us that the best area to spot animals was near the northeast entrance. Here, early morning, is where we had the best chance of seeing the wolfpack. Boy was she right!!
Still stunned by our wildlife encounters, and at the request of my aunt, we came to a pull-out a couple miles from exiting the park. My uncle decided to take the kids for a walk to the treeline.
Suddenly, I heard a car come to a screeching halt! I was dumbfounded to see a black bear coming off the hill, walking across the two lane street toward the treeline and my family. Thankfully, my uncle had turned around after reading a sign, “Beware, WILL encounter bears.” Furthermore, the bear appeared to be more interested in getting to the river below. That bear had come within 20 yards of them. Talk about too close for comfort.
May I suggest: - Read ALL posted signs - Carry bear spray
Our visit to Yellowstone will be hard to beat. Words and pictures do this national park no justice.
Yellowstone had given us the experience of a lifetime, now it was on to Ashford, MT via Beartooth Scenic Highway. This is a 68 mile byway that twist, loops, switchbacks, and climbs heights of almost 11,000ft. Stop in The Top of The World Store and see chipmunks run around at Rock Creek Vista Point. This stretch of road tested my anxiety the most. But the views……….WOW!!!
Once off the mountain, we drove to Broadus Pass Rest Area off US212, for a much needed break and an opportunity to sleep under the Montana big dark sky.
Day 19-20: Keystone, South Dakota
We began our tour of the monuments traveling 17 miles, 314 curves, 14 switchbacks, 3 pigtails, 3 tunnels, 2 splits, and 4 Presidents on Iron Mountain Road to reach Mount Rushmore.
Crazy Horse Memorial is less than 20 miles from Mount Rushmore. It is worth seeing both monuments, even though Crazy Horse continues to be under construction.
We spent the latter half of the day at Reptile Gardens, petting snakes, alligators, and giant tortoises before returning to camp to play a round of mini-golf.
May I suggest: - Drive slow and don't look down. Where we stayed: Spokane Creek Cabins and Campground - We put out a call and the manager Brian answered. This campground is in the Black Hill Mountains, 20 minutes from Mount Rushmore. Of all the campgrounds we stayed on our 30 days, this was our favorite and offered the most amenities: store, full hook up, mini-golf, pool, playground, new laundry room, shower house, and more.
Day 21: Rapid City, SD
We had to make a stop at the top of the ridge at Dinosaur Park, before wandering the City of Presidents. Afterall, my son is a dinosaur enthusiast.
Day 22: Alliance, Nebraska
Knowing my uncle is The Carman, our next stop would be Carhenge. We had never heard of this free pop culture attraction in Alliance, Nebraska that pays homage to Stonehenge.
Where we stayed: Jeske's Over The Hill Campground - Adjacent to Carhenge was this full hook-up, modest RV park. It was quiet and allowed us to enjoy the country views and sculptures. May I suggest: - My family agrees, the best pancakes we ever ate in a restaurant were found here in Alliance, Nebraska.
Day 23: Scotts Bluff National Monument
We took the easy drive to the top of the bluff. However, you can hike the nearly 4 miles to the top of the this 4000 ft summit which is on the Oregon Trail.
Day 24-25: Boulder Colorado
Located at the foothill of the Rocky Mountains, enjoy the beauty this college town has to offer.
May I suggest: - Try the Pad See Ewe or the Pineapple fried rice at this Thai restaurants.
Day 26-27: Bandelier National Monument and Coronado Historic Site
Of all the parks and monuments that we visited on our road trip, Bandelier National Monument was the most spiritual experience.
We hiked the Main Loop Trail and made the 140 ft climb into the Alcove House. Seeing the kiva that is still standing, I tried to imagine how the ancient Pueblo people lived and managed this dwellings.
Where we stayed: Santa Fe, New Mexico - Managed by Ms. Sylvia, and about an hour away from Bandelier National Park and 30 minutes from Albuquerque, Los Pinos RV Park had full hook up and everything we needed for our night stay. May I suggest: - When available, take the free shuttle at White Rock Visitor Center to Bandelier National Monument. - Use only the designated ladders to climb into the dwellings. - Definitely the most interesting burger I have ever eaten, indulge in an elk burger, The Doug, at Sirphey at Bandelier.
We took the 30 minute trip to Albuquerque stopping by Coronado Historic Site and Indian Pueblo Cultural Center. It was a pleasure to meet and speak with Puebloan women, bonding over the commonalities of our respective heritages.
Day 28: Cimarron Heritage Center and Cadillac Ranch
Unfortunately, we made it to Cimarron Heritage Center in Oklahoma on a holiday. The center was closed, but we made the best of our visit. We let the slide out on the RV, and enjoyed a meal right there on the side of the road.
Our next stop was Amarillo, Tx. We parked along Route 66 among the other visitors, for a chance to tag a vintage cadillac at Cadillac Ranch.
Day 29: Palo Duro Canyon State Park
The second largest canyon in America is right here in the Texas Panhandle. Hike, enjoy birdwatching, and take the approximately 20 mile scenic drive to the floor.
Day 30: Home Sweet Home
I will take the liberty and speak for the family when I say this was a trip of a lifetime! It tested, connected, grounded, and showed me America The Beautiful. We often sit and reminisce on the experience we had together on our 30 day road trip. Matter of fact, we are planning and praying to be able to do it again.
May I suggest: - If you plan on carrying, be sure to check with each states' gun laws before heading out. - Check the weather. We were out in late May through the end of June, and experienced the heat, wind, rain, and snow. - Keep your gas tank full. When you see a station, you may not see another one for hours. - Bring your favorite puzzles, books, games, and downtime activities (electronic free).
BTW: Thank you Mr. Melvin Fitzpatrick for your exuberance! Your RV travels intrigued and inspired me.
Do you have summer plans? Ever been RV’ing? Where’d you go? Which National Park(s) have you visited? We would love to know!
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6 Comments. Leave new
This blog was so good. The memories it has brought back. Man, we had a wonderful time.
Yes, we did.
Wow!! Definitely a bucket list trip!! SO awesome 🤩
LOVE LOVE THIS!!!!
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